how to know when to set the hook in bass fishing?

I go bass fishing a lot with senkos and have lost to many bass by not knowing when to set the hook, does anyone when i should set the hook?

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8 thoughts on “how to know when to set the hook in bass fishing?

  1. well your lucky a professioanl bass fisherman read this answer, i almost always fish with senkos, the best way to to know when to set the hook is when u feel the heavyness of the bass on the line, then wait for the bass to start pulling your line when u feel him pulling the line it means the bait is in his mouth, drop your rod tip down and almost as hard as u can jerk it up high, and make sure your using a good hook, i suggest a red 4/0 or 5/0 size gamakatsu hook… i think i deserve 10 points now for that!!!

  2. you probaly set the hook to early just like worm fishing watch for movement of the line and a heavier rod could help to

  3. Standard Hookset:

    When first learning to fish, most fishermen are taught that when a fish bites you jerk the rod as hard as you can, in hopes of penetrating the fish’s mouth with the hook. For bait-fishing youngsters this approach usually works fine – most of the time a fish picks up the offering and immediately swallows the bait, allowing for a solid hookset, even if there’s a little slack in the line.

    But, when you start bass fishing it all changes – weedless and semi-weedless baits are the norm. Because of that, our lure’s hooks are more apt not to meet with their target, the flesh within the fish’s mouth or jaw. It takes a lot of pressure to force the hook point through the plastic worm, or to bend a jig’s weedguard down enough to expose the hook point.

    The standard method of setting the hook with a worm or jig is to reel down to the water, wait for a little pressure, and rear back. If the fish you are setting up on is swimming away from you, taking all the slack out of the line, you are generally okay. But, if the fish is swimming towards the boat or at some angle other than away from the boat, you may be in for a bit of trouble.

    Setting the hook on that type of bite normally results in the rod tip going past shoulder level, up and over your head. When that happens you’re just stuck – instead of the fish – you have no alternative but to lower the rod tip and reel like crazy in an attempt to get or keep pressure on the fish. And, if at any time during this zany operation the fish gets any slack, it’s usually bye-bye, a missed fish.

    Reel Set Method:

    One solution to this problem is the reel set. Like with the standard set, after getting bit you immediately lower your rod tip to the water surface, right where your line enters. Next, you simply start reeling as fast as you can. Once you feel the rod starting to bend, or load up, set the hook with a short, fast stroke. With this method your rod is never out of position, i.e., over your head. You are in constant contact with the fish during the entire process; it’s that simple.

    This method works, and here’s why. Modern reels take up more than 20 inches of line per turn of the handle, with the average being around 24 inches, and some high-speed high-ratio reels take up much more. Assuming you make only five turns on the reel handle, you have moved 120 inches (ten feet) of line through the water, before ever setting the hook.

    Compare this to a 90-degree swing with a seven-foot rod, which moves eleven feet of line (yes, I did the math). The swing set did move one more foot of line, but consider where your rod tip is at the end of that swing – right, above your head. From that position you’ve got to reel down to recover that eleven feet of line, all the while hoping to maintain sufficient pressure on the rod so as not to allow any slack.

    And, because you weren’t exerting full pressure on the fish during that time, you’re also allowing it ample opportunity to dig itself into some nasty cover. With the reel set you’re always in control, with the rod out in front of you, exerting full pressure.

    Many times it’s not necessary to set the hook with the reel set, just a fast, constant turn of the reel handle can be enough to begin penetration or bury the hook, and then the pressure of the fighting fish finishes the job, especially with today’s chemically sharpened spears.

    Although this hook set will take a trip or two on the water to master, once you do, I’m confident your hook-up ratio will increase dramatically. If you’ve had problems with the old standard “swing and pray set”, give this technique a try; I know it will add weight to your livewell.

  4. When you see your line moving sideways or feel a tell-tale tap tap, exert sideways pressure. If you are wacky rigging, wait until you feel the weight of the fish then give your rod a quick snap of the wrist. If you are using good quality sharp hooks you need’nt give much of a hard hookset.

  5. The thing that has helped me get better hook sets with senko type lures, is using a 7 ft Med rod with 15 lb flourocarbon line. A longer rod and no streach line, It made all the difference in the world. Also, try to watch your line, instead of your bait. Your almost always going to miss if you see the fish strike. It may not be your timing, it might be your equipment.

  6. I set the hook when fishing tight line as soon as I feel pressure or a steady pull. If you are fishing a slack as soon as you see the line move or straighten out reel in the slack and set the hook HARD.

  7. setting the hook is more a matter of patience then really dont “know” when the fish has the hook in there mouth but a good way to go with is to wait to see when your line starts to move in an akward direction…your HAVE to watch your line when the line starts going count 5 seconds then set that sucker

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